Shoutbox

Ok, ill teach ya'll to OC .

3.0Ghz is easy. Ill show you guys how to do this.

Remember, read ALL of this FIRST, then while your doing it, do it step by step, do not skip ANYTHING.

This is for Q6600 ONLY(not E6600). Do not try this on ANYTHING else. All Core 2 processors you OC the same, but with diff settings.

Simple: (3.0ghz)
Step 1:
Download CPU-Z

Step 2:
Download Orthos

Step 3:
Check if you have a MSI/VIA/Asus/Gigabyte/DFI Lan Party motherboard. You can do this by going into CPU-Z and clicking the Mainboard tab, and next to "Manufacturer:" is has the company.

If its not any of these, then its going to be either
A) Impossible (as other MB manufacturers to have OCing allowed in the MB)
B) Allot harder

Step 4:
If you do have any of the above MB's manufacture MB's, a Q6600. Then thats all you need! Now we can start to actually OC!

Step 5:
As this is the simple edition, ill show you the easier way, but slightly less performance(and safer) way.

Reboot your computer and enter BIOS

Step 6:
As I own a Asus MB and dont have my friends GIGABYTE one here as a reference, I can only give you the specific where and how's on the Asus board. But its just a different layout on other boards, same thing.

First load default settings, just so we have a clean slate.

Asus:
Go to tab thats second from the left (ill edit this with the proper name, i forgot it right now...).
Select Jumper Free Config and do these settings:

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Top Option: Manual
CPU Ratio Control: Manual
Ratio CMOS Setting: 9
FSB Frequency: 333
Dram Frequency: DDR2-677mhz

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Then go back, and select CPU Configuration:

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CPU Ratio Control: Manual
Ratio: 9
C1E Support: Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit: Disabled
Vanderpool Technology: Disabled
CPU TM Function: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
PECI: Enabled
Speed Step(Intel): Disabled

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For boards that are NOT Asus just do this:
Deactivate Speed Step and C1E support. Set FSB to 333, then select DRAM Frequency as 677mhz.

Step 7:
You should now have 3.0ghz. Now go into Cpu-Z again and check on the front page (tab CPU) that your Core Speed now = 3000mhz. Its normally NOT exact it will say something like 3005.7mhz. But we say 3000 just for simplicity.

Your done now! If you want to go higher, you will need to increase voltage, which is DANGROUS. Not for you, but for your CPU, you can easily wreck and severely shorten its lifespan. And you will need better then Stock cooler.

Now this is an OPTIONAL step, but it is still RECOMMEND (It is requried when going above and beyond 3.0ghz)

Step 8:
Run two instances of Orthos, now go into Task Manager (Ctrl Alt Del). Select the Processors tab. Now reorder list by Process Name (By clicking Image Name on top of column). Now select and right click Orthos and Select Afinity..... Unclick Core 2 and 3. Now press Ok, and do the same for the second Orthos, but make unselect Core0 and Core1.

What this does is make this dual core only program, work on two cores at the same time. This program will make your computer UNUSABLY SLOW. Quit every application you can.

Now on each one and start it. If it doesnt get any errors in 8 hours. Your computer is now sucsfully OC'd. If it does error, somethings gone wrong with your OCing.

How to OC an 8800GT (The simple way)

1. Download Riva Tuner

1.5. If your using Vista 64 bit. You will need to reset your computer and hold down F8 and then selecting Disable Driver Signing. And then install Riva Tuner. If your using Vista 32 bit, or XP 32/64  bit, you can just install it without having to Disable Driver Signing.

2. Download latest Forceware Drivers and install them. (it is recommend to fully delete old drivers before installing new ones, but this isnt necessary, the nVidia installer should get rid of at least 99% of the old ones)

3. Run RivaTuner, below the line where it says Driver Settings;. It should say ForceWare Detected              Customize; and have a little triangle thing. Click that. Now select the graphic that looks like a graphics card (far left).

4. A dialog should now appear, this is when you can start customising! Now, setting this settings to high will make your system UNSTABLE! 

So, if you want some easy stable settings that you can use with a stock cooler. Use these:

Deselect Link Clocks;. Then, click the slider once on the Core Clock; slider. Now use your left/right arrows to move the slider to 680 mhz,

Do the same thing but with the Shader Clock, but set it to 1680.

Do the same thing again, but with the Memory Clock set it to 970.

Then select Apply Settings at Windows Start up;. Then click apply!

Thats it, your set, but I recommend stressing out your GPU a bit just to test if it IS stable. You can use 3Dmark 06, Crysis and if you have Vista, 3Dmark Vantage( Highly recommended).

If you dont mind the noise, you can manually  set the fan to 90-100% by selecting the Fan tab, Selecting Direct Controll; and then moving the sliders.

If you do that, its easily possible to do these settings (you WILL be required to test its stability with these settings): 700(Core Clock)/1701(Shader)/999(Memory) . : Stable - Peak

Just to make post sizes shortrt Im going to span this out for a couple of posts. Sorry if it annoys you, but its for your own benefit .

This is now the advance options for better 3.0ghz performance:

Remember to do each setting from top to bottom, some option will only appear after selecting certain options.

Asus Board:
These are settings for Jumper Free Config

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Write To Read Delta: Auto
Read to Precharge Time: Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Auto

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CPU Ration Control: Manual
Ratio CMOS Setting: 9

This forces the multiplyer to stay to 9. This is one of the things Speed Step and C1E do... they change this number to 6 when it trys to go above 2.44ghz. For saving power thing.... Anyway its lame, and not needed for a desktop PC. Unless your really wanting to save $1 on your next power bill.....

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FSB Strap To North Bridge: Auto

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FSB Frequency: 333

The most importent thing in OCing. You get how many ghz in totall, but this number, and your multiplyer. Everything else is just here to help these two numbers .

You get your tottall Ghz, by this sum "Multiplyer x FSB = Core Speed". So in this instance, its "9x333=3000mhz, which = 3.0ghz.

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PCIE Frequency: Auto

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Dram Frequency: DDR2-667mhz

After youve done all the options, i want you to go back to FSB and add a few fsb and take a few FSB and watch the DRAM Frequency. (Set it back to 333 after you see this)

You should notice that your DRAM Freqeuncy goes up and down as well with your FSB. The proper explanation of this is long, so in short. Your FSB controlls how fast your RAM and your CPU goes. Although you can change it in block how fast your RAM is.

And you may also ask this "My ram can go at 800mhz, why not set this to 800mhz? Instead of 677". Well you may thing its because "It needs to be cooler" but no its not.

When running at 333 fsb, your RAM wont have to wait for your cpu and vice versa at 667mhz, so this makes a 1:1 ratio of speeds. Which is good, its what we need! But if we up this up to 800mhz, the ram will have to wait for the CPU and make a bottleneck sort of, for gaming having a 1:1 ratio, is far better. But in most cases, if your doing allot of media work, like encoding videos and stuff, having the faster MHz will benefit more then having the 1:1 ratio. Because the RAM is just being used as a temporary storage, rather then writing values and deleting them very quickly.
For most program a 1:1 ratio is better then the 200mhz though.

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Dram Command Rate: Auto
Dram Timing Control: Manual

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CAS: 5
RAS To CAS: 5
RAS Precharge: 5
RAS Active Time: 15This is forcing RAM to go to default timings. Some generic ram will have these higher, this is the reason for setting this, and forcing them to run in divisible portions makes it more effective.

If you know that you have decent “Performance Ram” that has timings LOWER (lower is BETTER in timings). You can make it 4-4-4-12. But only if you KNOW that your ram can handle this. If not, just leave it as 5-5-5-15. It is a universally working number

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RAS to RAS Delay: Auto
Row Refreash Cycle Time: Auto
Write Recovery Time: Auto
Write To Read Delay: Auto
Read To Precharge time: Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Auto

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Transaction Booster: Disabled
Relax Level: 0
No idea what this acctually does, but it seems to go faster if you disable it and set relax level to 0.....

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Clock Over Charging Mode: Auto

CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled

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CPU Voltage: Auto

This is a very importent setting later on. But leave it as auto for now, because it will auto detect what Voltage a Q6600 should be at.

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CPU Voltage Reference: Auto
CPU Voltage Damper: Enabled
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto

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DRAM Voltage: Auto

Another very importent option for later on, but right now, it only needs to be on Auto

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FSB Termination Voltage: Auto
North Bridge Voltage: Auto
Northbridge Voltage: Auto
South Bridge Voltage: Auto

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I will edit some of these with an explanation of what they are, how they work and why we have set them to the settings that we have set.


How to OC 8800GT Advance Method:

Do the same as you did for the simple method, and find a setting thats stable. Once you have done this, download a program called NiBiTor

Now, this program will modify the BIOS of the graphics card... so its just like OCing a CPU, but a GPU doesnt have a front end for it... so we use this nifty little tool to modify it for us! So its not by the BIOS instead of the software, this does result in a slight speed boost in graphics and in CPU (CPU has to do 1 or 2 less cycles (in other words... you wont notice it).

I do NOT endorse that you use this. You can really screw things up with this. For very advance users only! And if you need help with this program, seek help on a very complete guide/tut about this program. It involves flashing your bios of your GPU, which if that screws up... youl have to buy a new one. GPU BIOS's cant be modified on the fly like a motherboards can.

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Originally posted by Th3rmal

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Originally posted by mattisdada

CPU: Q6600 (deafult 2.4ghz, Oc'd to 3.6ghz)

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holy shi--

Teach me

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I shall (eventually)

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Originally posted by Chris4
I would overclock, but there are downsides:

1 - It decreased the life of your CPU
2 - It uses more electricity

Am I right?

CPU: E6750 2.66 GHz
GeIL 2GB (2x1GB) PC2-6400C4 800MHz Timings: 4-4-4-12
MB: ASUS P5K
GPU: OcUK ATI Radeon X1950 Pro 256MB
Case: NZXT Apollo
Cooling: Arctic Cooling AC-FRZ-7P Socket 775 CPU Cooler
PSU: Corsair HX 520W
HDD: Samsung SpinPoint T 320GB SATA-II 8MB Cache

Photos: Image 1 | Image 2

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Yes your right, but if you do it correctly, it shouldnt signifigently shorten life span. .

And why did you get a non stock cooler if your not going to OC? Quiter?

And your E6750 is quite OCable as well I would give it a go. If your guided you cant screw up your CPU by just modifying the multiplyer and the FSB. You can only screw it by over volting. So this is safe

The Q6600 is designed to be OCable quite well. It can OC to a peak of 3.8 (aparantly, allthough, in theroy its infinte... you just need to cool it enough for it not to melt... )